Rest days!

Chris posting here!

I am thankful to have my Dad, Earle, updating this for me. The posts would be very far and few between if not for him posting what he can glean from our short conversations or a few text messages.

We are home in Danville at the moment. Last night we stayed at my Grandparents camp on Daniel's pond in Glover Vermont, not terribly far from Newport VT and the remaining stretch we have through Vermont.
We came home to get a few things, and most importantly, wash our clothes. We were both starting to stink a bit, after 12 days wearing the same things.

Anyways, from where my Dad last updated our progress.

Wednesday morning we woke up in Davis park in Richford Vermont. A campsite pretty close to the main road, but about the only place to stay. Woke up to a pouring rain. Great. Really our first poor weather of the trip, we have been fortunate (or unfortunate with low water) from the lack of rain. Had to bail the canoe out before we started portaging. We packed up in the tent, and made our oatmeal in the park's bandstand, and attempted to wait the rain out a little bit. No luck there, it just rained harder, so we packed the tent up in the rain, and portaged through town. Got onto the river, and the current was pretty swift, making our upstream paddle on the Missisquoi river even harder. Swift current, added with still low spots in the river, made for very tough paddling. The river was so muddy we couldn't see where we were putting our feet to line up the river either. Expending alot of time and energy to not go very far, it was frustrating to say the least. So we made the decision to take out on the main road, and portage the canoe to the border. The last thing I wanted to do was walk further, but we were having such a hard time paddling, it had to be done. So we wheeled the canoe across the border, and began looking for a place to put back in the river, as the Missisquoi is deeper on the Canadian side. We must have missed the put in, and wheeled 2 miles into Canada before we found a place to launch. Then it was hard, but very doable, paddling to Carrefour campground, an RV park on the river and one of the few places to stay in Quebec. We got put into a large field, with only one other tenter set up, so it was a peaceful, although buggy evening.
Thursday morning we put back on the river, and paddled up to the North branch of the Missisquoi, and took that to Mansonville, Quebec where we portaged through town, and went through a big fiasco trying to get some Canadian cash to pay for a boatwash on Memphremagog. We got some eventually. Back on the river for a stretch, until we came to chemin peabody, the road the Grand portage goes over. 5.7 miles over the height of the land, traversing two seperate watersheds. It was not nearly as far as some of the walks we had, but it was quite a climb, a very steep dirt road.
We made it to Lake Memphremagog, got our boat washed, and attempted to put in the water. We paddled around to the motor boat wharf, and the waves were really tossing us, they were a good 3-4 foot swells. Scared me that we were going to swamp the canoe. Thinking of both our safety, we elected to pull out and wait on the wharf. The lake didn't seem to be calming down, and a local gave us a forecast of increasing winds. OK. Options- stay at the wharf all night, leave early morning, MAYBE the lake would be calmer. Or, get picked up at Perkins landing, where we were, instead of Newport, where we had planned. We elected to get picked up at the landing, and got shuttled to my Grandparents camp where we stayed. I feel this was a safety decision, just like when we got shuttled up a good portion of Lake Champlain. Big water, big waves, big boats, makes our canoe feel very small. I feel no shame in missing these parts, I honestly feel it was a matter of our safety.

So, here we are, back home in Vermont, taking a few needed rest days. The blisters on my feet need some time to recover from all of out walking (canoes go IN the WATER not over ASPHALT!) we are getting some solid home cooked meals, a nice bed, and showers. The next leg of our journey beyond Vermont is getting into the heart of Maine, and I am very much looking forward to paddling in Maine. I think it will be the best part of the trip. Vermont, my home state, is known to be one of the hardest sections to paddle. With the two big lakes, Champlain and Magog, along with 73 miles upstream on the Missisquoi, and upstream on the Clyde river, the very twisty Nulhegan river, and add in few options for camping, it is a trying section. The next few days we will be doing day trips based out of my Grandparents camp. We will leave in the morning, paddle to a spot, and come back to Camp. This will probably go on until we reach the Nulhegan river, which dumps into the Connecticut river. Then we will be right back into it.

I am feeling very good about the trip so far. New York was very enjoyable, with the exception of low-water on the Saranac river. Vermont was a challenging stretch, but very gratifying to conquer the Missisquoi, even though it almost kicked our butts. We are now enjoying a few rest days, and looking forward to Maine, still with over half the trip to go. I am confident we will finish, and believe it or not, I am enjoying myself immensely. Even with the blisters, the sunburns, the bug bites and swarming black flies, the unplanned long portages, I am having a great time, and I am very happy to have Meghan along with me as a paddling partner.
 

~ Chris

Continue Upstream

Tuesday 6/24
Two thirds of the total upstream miles on the NFCT are in VT.
Low water continues today. Both a blessing, less current to fight, and a curse, with insufficeint water to paddle. There was water enough to float the boat most of the time, although you could only wet about half the paddle. Not so many rapids today. A little easier going, but the day alternated between paddling a couple hundred yards than walking the boat through low riffles for a stretch. In and out all day long.
Approached some ledges near Richford. Appeared to be not paddleable and difficult to traverse. Dirt road was near the river here, so they pulled out and wheeled the last mile and a half to Richford. Campsite here is in a park in Richford.

Tomorrow will be 7 miles to the border, than 12 miles to the campground in Quebec.

Thursday continue up the Missisquoi. Grand Portage for 6 miles onto Lake Memphremagog. Weather, wind permitting they will come down the lake and cross back into the US late afternoon. 24 miles.
Alternately they could stay in Perkins Landing on Magog and wait for better weather the next day.    

posted by Earle

Missisquoi River Rail Trail

Monday 6/23
Traveled 19 miles today on the Missisquoi River. Portaged around dam in Swanton. First half of day spent much of it lining up rapids. Hot sunny day. Stopped in Sheldon Junction and spotted an ice cream stand. Had to stop to fill water bottles as Missisquoi water not reccomended for drinking. And had an ice cream. Leaving Shedlon Jct. there were long sets of rapids and no good portage trail. But there was good access there to the Missisquoi Rail Trail. Jumped on that and wheeled about 8 miles to Enosburg. Chris getting sore feet and blisters. Got to Lawyers Landing 8:00 PM. Went to Hannaford to restock lunch supplies. Tent set up 8:30 PM. The campsite is an access area right next to the road. No hot meal, just bread, cheeese, pepperoni than to bed. Hard day.

posted by Earle

Fishing Boats Sunday 6/22

Sunday 6/22

     Paddled from North Hero Island to Highgate Falls Dam campsite. Twenty-two miles, from 6:00 AM to 3:30 PM. Lake Champlain was calm water and good paddling, just saw a lot of boats. Must have been a fishing tournament. Upstream on Missisquoi River wasn't too bad. It was a hot day but paddling was ok.
     They had lunch at the park in Swanton and got ice cream bars there. Hopefully reach Lawyers Landing in Enosburgh tomorrow, and be in Newport in four days, if all goes right.

posted by Earle

Paddling Again!

Sunday 6/22
5:23 AM  Hitting the water. Lake Champlain is pretty placid. Getting an early start to take advantage of the good conditions. Both looking forward to a hard day of paddling, which they haven't had in a few days.

posted by Earle

Shuttle

Saturday 6/21
   
Had a shuttle down route 3 to avoid Saranac River. Basically not enough water, too many sharp drops, and couldn't be paddled. No regret missing that part of river. Dropped off in North Hero. Was a safety decision to by pass much of the big Lake. They did paddle a short ways on Lake Champlain. Very bad, windy and high waves, worried them. Glad they only had a short distance to paddle there.
    Staying at North Hero state park tonight. It is open for primitive camping, with no services, no facilities, nobody there, basically abandoned. "A bit unsettling."
   They will be up early tomorrow to cross Lake Champlain the rest of the way. Hope to get onto the Mississiquoi River and stay near Highgate. Than 73 miles upstream.

posted by Earle

Saranac River rapids

Friday June 20th
     Today was their first significant downriver run with rapids. Not to be. They covered 21 miles and only paddled about 6 miles in the boat. The first portage was around Separator Rapids, than they decided to skip Permanent Rapids also.
There really wasn't enough water to even make a choice. Just dry, bony and rocky. Fortunately or not, the river ran along the road most of the way. They ended up wheeling, walking about 15 miles today. While they did a little lining in the river the rocks were too slippery and water level to marginal even for that. Outfitter in Saranac said he would skip this section as it's really only passable in high water. Chris said this was their hardest day yet. Home tonight is Bakers Acres campground. Tomorrow they have 22 miles to cover to reach Plattsburgh.

posted by Earle

Thursday June 19th
     Had breakfast at Mckenzies restuarant. 9:00 AM, Latest put-in so far in Lake Flower, through town to the dam. Portage around back on the river and stop at Saranac River Outfitters to pick up box of food we left for them. Only five days since departure, and a couple unplanned meals out. They now have too much food to carry! Pick up a dry-bag just for food and carry it outside packs. Outfitter was very helpful and good source of advice. Back onto the river heading out of town.    
      Saranac River was low but could be paddled. It's route went through Franklin Falls Pond and Union Falls Pond, for about 8 miles. Ran directly into a head wind and waves all the way. Very tough paddling. Beat by the time they reached camp site at Bear Point on Union Falls.

posted by Earle
 

Wednesday June 18th  
 Chris and Meghan made it to the village of Saranac Lake today. Being ahead almost two days, they are staying there tonight and getting some needed supplies and food. Checked into the Sara Placid motel and said something about a nice hot shower.
     They left the Raquette river drainage at Stoney Creek Ponds, and made the portages to Upper Saranac Lake and to Middle Saranac. There was no tendor along the Saranac River locks between Upper/Middle and Lower Saranac Lake and Oseetah, so they had to operate the locks themselves. Saw their first Bald Eagle on Lake Flower almost in Saranac Lake.
     They seem to be leapfrogging the paddling Dutchmen couple. Pass them most mornings, apparently they are not early starters. They did pass Chris and Meghan, when they ran some rapids on the Raquette below Long Lake, while Chris and Meghan were lining that stretch. The Dutch broke their wheels on the first day. Cheap plastic just melted around the axle. Guess they were trying to find a set with bicycle wheels like C&M have. Ranger said those are the most durable.
     Another nice person they met: When they reached the lean-to on the beginning of Raquette River, and the end of a portage on a hot sunny afternoon, they met someone and began talking about their trip. He asked how long since they had a cold beer. Needless to say it was long enough and he gave them each an ice cold Bud lime. Very refreshing.

Posted by Earle

Tuesday June 17th
Reached Stony Creek Pond on Raquette River. About 2 days ahead. Paddling is going good. Met forest ranger at Raquette Falls. Had lunch with him in nice cool cabin. He gave them some apples. Told them about father/son NFCT team who crashed and destroyed canoe in rapids on Saranac River in town of Saranac. He also gave them weather update about thunderstorms tonight. Have seen a lot of deer and fawns. Hope to reach town of Saranac tomorrow.

posted by Earle

Monday June 16th
Hot day paddling on the Long Lake. Reached Plumley Landing on the lake 5:20 PM. They are a full day ahead of their planned itinerary.

Chris's dad here. I'll be posting updates as they are able to send them. Will be spotty at times and brief.

Sunday 6/15. They made it to objective lean-to on Racquette Lake by 1:00. Decided to push on. Paddled Forked Lake and completed 1.5 Mile portage. Camp at lean-to at beginning of Raquette River. Tired, 22 miles today.
post by Earle

     First leg of the trip with Chris and Meghan.
   
     The Fulton Chain of Lakes has a wide range of character. Near the villages of Old Forge, Eagle Bay and Inlet, the 'camps' are predominately very elaborate high end homes with boat houses worth more than your average camp around here. The most ostentatious of these had a full front panoramic glass three stories high, in the Adirondack style of course. The further from these centers in general the less showy and expensive the camps were. Definitely a 'camp and boat' culture though, as they dominate the shoreline from Old Forge through to Inlet. There are even some visible on the ridges back away from the lakes. They peek over or through the trees, with what must be spectacular views.
     Much of First Lake is narrow, with camps and the high banks close to the channel, shaded with high arching trees. As the waters finally open up we feel a pleasant breeze behind us. Not much for waves here at the SW end, but the wind does provide a nice boost. At times you can hit a real sweet spot with the wind of one side and you just paddle hard on the other side without any steering correction. Feels like a sailboat tacking across the wind.
    The paddle up the lakes is uneventful except I struggle at time to maintain pace with Chris and Meghan. Solo paddling has it's benefits, but it's still one paddle against two in the water at any time. Regardless it feels good to be on the water.
      Fourth Lake is probably the largest and longest of the chain. The wind here has considerable reach to build up and pile up waves. Even with the wind astern, paddling become difficult. I am struggling just to maintain a consistent heading. The waves roll through the length of the boat and lift the front end as they pass.
My bow will be moved three feet one way, than while trying to correct it another wave rolls through and pitches the other way. Reluctantly I break out the double end paddle while watching Chris and Meghan open a considerable gap in front of me. The ride becomes very wet, but eventually we reach the end of the lake. At the outlet the waves are funneled into the channel and form rolling waves like a whitewater river. Challenging.
     The narrow passage to Fifth Lake goes by the Inlet town recreation area, private camps, public docking and a run down marina. They have gas and mixed gas pumps at the dock. Over $5 per gallon! It is very apparent we are heading upstream now as the current is considerable. We have to paddle hard to maintain headway and avoid the speedboats, party boats and fishing boats closeby on both sides.
      The portage to Sixth Lake appears to be wheelable. Meghan and I take gear over first, while Chris takes his canoe overhead (not that far...). I'm not to proud though to fix my wheels onto the canoe when I go back. The character of the lakes changes dramatically. There are camps here only on the end, as the signs of civilization begin to fade away. Sixth and Seventh are much more pleasant paddling with the shorter windward reaches it becomes much less of an issue. The hilly wooded shoreline is much more relaxing than the jarring showy camps on the southern end of the chain.
    Soon we reach the campsite they have in mind on Seventh Lake. There is still a stiff breeze on the exposed rocks here and with the damp misty weather is quite cool. The leanto will provide good shelter. Chris quickly fixes a tarp to the open front to break the wind. He is complaining about the cold weather with their thin
fleece bags. "Where are the warm summer nights?"
     The picnic table is moved to the lee of the leanto to cook dinner. Sausage, gravy and biscuits. MMmmm, how did I happen into this. Hot and tasty. Hits the spot. Dinner done, it becomes a battle to stay up. The cold damp discourages any outside activity. We are all beat and into bed by 8:00 PM.
    All up early the next morning. I head out 10 to 15 minutes ahead to get a start on them, knowing they will catch up in good time. Very slight breeze right ahead, but paddling is terrific, on the still water. Soon at the end of the lake i see a campsite on the left bank. Old Town on the beach, must be the acquaintance Chris and Meg have made on-line from the Netherlands. I ask if they are doing the NFCT, and if they are from their. "Yes" and "Yes", "You must be Chris's dad." Chris and Meg catch me before I set out on portage.
    The portage here is through Eight Lake Campground, all paved. Setting up for wheeling is quick and practiced now. Once over carrying pack, quickly in and over to the put-in. Eight Lake passes quickly and once more a portage. No boardwalk in sight as anticipated but it appears wheelable. According to Chris 1.3 miles as we head out. Pass what must be the highest point on the NFCT, but surprisingly no marker.
    With the opening to Brown's Tract Inlet in sight we finally see the boardwalk. Short and winding, but quite necessary as it traverses over swampy open water, which would be impossible to carry or paddle.
     This little stream is pleasant, meandering back and forth upon itself. It is quiet, and fascinating, with beaver dams, mud and sufficient current to keep you moving yet on your toes. Eventually it becomes a little tedious though as we can see buildings and steeples of the Racquette Lake village, yet they seem not to get any closer as we wind around the twisty channel.
     Finally under the bridge and out onto the open lake. A little headwind is more apparent now with small waves rolling in. The end of my piece of this journey is
in sight as we paddle into the quaint little settlement. The excursion boat, a general supply store which has seen better days, tap room, a few other buildings and a couple churches are all that is here. It has the feel of a tourist stop from another era that is hanging on by a thread.
     Jackie has just arrived. We wish Chris and Meghan well. After a quick moment to stretch they are underway as we load my canoe for the trip home.

Earle Elliott

The Journey Begins

Chris and Meghans Excellent Adventure

     Well Chris and Meghan finally began their trip Saturday. They left Danville at 6:00 AM and arrive at Old Forge about 11:00 AM. There to wish them well, were Jackie and I (Chris's mom and dad), Dave and Karen (Meghans mom and dad) and Meghans grandparents (Doug and Marge), all who made the five hour trip. Old Forge seems to be a long ways out in the middle of nowhere. It is a busy little tourist town, a remote outpost of waterborne, wilderness, fishing and camping activity. Very fitting for the Western terminus of the NFCT.
     Put-in at the town dock was just about noon. First time in the water always takes longer, getting all your gear in the boat, organized, and tied down. Than of course pictures, hugs and well wishes.

posted by Earle

Friday night before the trip. Just finishing final details with Chris. He is showing me how to update his blog.

Earle

Countdown to Old Forge

There is less than two days before we set off in Old Forge NY.
We have done so much preparing in this final week, and my head is still spinning. Packing the food, re-doing the menu...... packing our packs, testing our gear (done a little too late...) getting in touch for food drops and pick ups, and on and on and we have more to do still!

Tonight we found out our solar charger power pack won't charge the cell phone. It plugs in fine, micro USB, but it doesn't charge. Something with the battery isn't compatible. Off to the store to buy a cheap pre-paid phone and be sure it will charge. Nope, store closed. Add it to the list to do tomorrow... I would rather go without a phone at all, but we do need it to get in touch with people to pick us up, arrange reservations for campsites, etc.

The last few days I have been stressing out alot. I just feel like I've forgot to plan something, we are missing something, somewhere. We probably aren't, but it doesn't keep me from worrying. I will keep worrying until we start paddling Saturday. I talked to my Dad and he said he does the same thing when he plans trips for the Boy Scout troop, being in charge of a dozen scouts.
Thankfully Meghan has kept a level head through my stressing and has been very reassuring to me and helpful with the last minute planning. We just need to start paddling already!

We have our food all set, finally. It was seperated out by week, but we found out it would not work for where we planned on having food drops and what we were capable of carrying in our packs. So, now we are starting carrying one week of meals. We are having a box of food dropped off in Saranac lake at St. Regis Canoe outfitters (Many many thanks to them!) who are always willing to help paddlers out. From there we are carrying enough until we get to my Grandparents camp in NEK Vermont. From there, we carry 5 days worth, and Meghan's Grandparents will meet us on the Androscoggin river in NH, and we will pick up enough food to get us to Jackman ME, where we are mailing food for the final push to Fort Kent.

Once we get paddling, I honestly am not too sure how well the blog will be updated. It may only be updated one time, when we rest a few days in Northern VT near home. I hope that isn't the case, but it may happen. We both will be keeping journals, and taking lots of pictures, so there will be a detailed account of our journey after we finish.

Farewell to all who are following our journey, we will update you when we can.
Saturday, we leave for Old Forge, and begin the journey paddling up the Fulton chain of lakes. I do not want to wait any longer!