Flagstaff Lake July 12th

Earle here.

After picking Chris and Meghan up on the road to Stratton (walking their canoe), we went back to Rangeley. Jackie and I took them out to dinner at the hotel we were staying at.They took advantage of opportunity to shower before we left them to set up tent at the Rangeley Lakes Logging Museum. They generously allow the NFCT portage to cross their property and allow through paddlers to camp here overnight on their grounds.  

Tried to put in on the South Branch Branch Dead River south of Stratton. Looked like a short mile on the map to a bridge. Turned out to be low gear 4WD crawling. Jackie driving was not happy but get going. Got to a very sketchy looking ledge and stone drop and decided to walk ahead to check it out. This 'road' is really just a snowmobile trail and the bridge we come to proves it. River here is very tempting, wild and remote. I would love to put in here, but water level would barely float a boat. I leave decision up to Chris and he concurs with my thoughts, "Turn around". Back out to the main road.

We put in on Flagstaff Lake Saturday morning near the town of Stratton. I was paddling solo and trying mightily to keep up with the paddle hardened Chris and Meghan. There are power boats, fishing boats and party boats putting in at this access. Busy, busy, I am a bit concerned about inconsiderate power boaters rolling canoes in their wakes. No need to worry. This lake is HUGE and for the most part they leave us plenty of room. There is definetely a party boat culture on this lake though. They seem to be the predominate and always with at least a 12 pack or 30 pack. 

Paddling is relatively easy. Little breeze and a beautiful background of the Bigelow range. A connected range of steep and massive peaks ever present and looming to the South. 

Only 3-4 miles in the wind begins to pick up. Suddenly waves are rolling through under the canoe about 1.5 feet high. As we approach a point and campsites Chris indicates to go ashore. We evaluate and he asks if I can continue. "Yes, it's manageable, if we stick next to shore". Site here is busy, two party boats and another boat apparently camping here. A woman from a party boat clarifies our locatoin and offers some advice on campsites further down the lake. We opt to continue hoping the SW wind will abate as we round the point. After a challenge to get over the breaking surf there is a strong rush of waves and wind as we round the point than the wind dies completely. 

Paddling is easy again as the miles roll by. I do suggest a lunch stop would be a welcome break from my struggle to maintain pace. 'Whew', but I'm not complaining for the opportunity to paddle and be a small part of their grand adventure. 

Back on the water the wind is picking up again. Quartering to us from behind, I lean my canoe to the side to catch more wind and get a strong boost. Feels like I am flying along now I easily keep up with little effort. Soon we are approaching an island and we follow Chris's plan to keep to the southern shore. As we get closer though, what should be open water according to the map appears blocked. There is quarter mile wide accumulation of dri-ki, mud, and old rotted timber.

 

We land and get out to look it over. Chris discovers the semi-solid looking dirt is really 2 feet deep. We have to pick our way stepping very carefully on the driftwood, sometime solid, but more often just floating on the water or mass of  accumulated debris. Slowly and carefully we make our way ahead, than drag the boats behind us. Chris survives a split between a collapsing foothold and wandering boat. We really have to be careful here as a fall will almost surely come on top of exposed ragged wood.

Once over this we have to pick our way through narrow channels to open water again. 

Soon we are at the 'Round Barn' campsites. There are about 9 primitive sites here. Accessible from a road, on a Saturday night we discover they are all full. Also home to some numerous extremely vicious mosquitoes. We ask a group of partyers about the island just offshore. "Nope, haven't seen anybody there all day." Sounds like a good deal to us. Breezy, no bugs? Turns out to be really sweet. Also away from the busy party crowd. 

Chris and Meghan are making some sweet smelling mac and cheese while I heat my beef stew right in the can. Meghan offers a piece of a nice round bread loaf and I am also cooking some canoe country bread. Much good food!  Sunset is beautiful and the water and breeze are calm background music, as I lay in my tent and look out over the lake. Morning will come soon and I will have to head home and they will continue on. 

  

Friday July 11th Richardson Lakes to Rangeley

Began early Friday morning from Mooselookmeguntic Lake. On the water about 5:30 hoping to beat any unfavorable winds. Reached Oquossoc early and stopped at a restaurant for a big breakfast. Onthe water again Rangeley Lake flew by and in reached Rangeley by 11:00 AM. Twenty miles already covered and still plenty of day left. Decided to begin the 16 mile portage across the paralleling the south Branch of the Dead River. They were picked up on the road by Earle and Jackie almost to Stratton at the head of Flagstaff Lake. Easily a 30 mile day on water and road!!

Posted by Earle

New Hampshire to Maine

       Ran the Androscoggin rapids Wednesday. The expression on Meghan's face when they began was sheer terror. It gradually transformed into a broad smile as her confidence built and realized whitewater could be fun.
      Went from Errol a short ways upstream to Lake Umbagog, the huge lake straddling the NH, Maine border. It was windy and choppy, but manageable. Across to the base of the Rapid River to the Cedar Stump campsites. This is run by a private outfitter and they have to be reserved. When people found out Chris and Meghan were through paddling they let them stay for free.
     Completed the three mile portage along the Rapid River this morning and reached Lower Richardson Lake. The rest of their day will be  along paddle up Lower and Upper Richardson Lakes. With weather and wind permitting they will cross Mooselookmeguntic to camp. Than it will be on to Rangely Lake tomorrow.

Posted by Earle

Ammonoosuc River 7/7/14

Earle here:
      Down the Connecticut River from Bloomfield was almost like a race. Traveled 9 miles in an hour and a half.  Riding the strong current like the wind, carried them to about the Maidstone railway trestle crossing. Then water began to slow, backed up behind the Guildhall dam. Found the Ammonoosuc and turned to upstream travel again. Good paddling, but had to work at it. Took out in Groveton, turned out to be the wrong side. Couldn't find the campsite and they were looking for the NFCT kiosk for direction. Someone came up to them in a pick up and asked if they needed help. Turned out he was an NFCT worker.  Knew exactly where they needed to go and even offered to give them a ride in his truck. The campsite turned out to be not that great. No flat spots for a tent, swampy and very buggy. I guess the hotel right across route 3 looked turned out to be pretty accomodating. Apparently the paddling dutch couple came to the same conclusion and also turned up there following Chris and Meghan's lead.
       Continuing upstream from Groveton the Ammonoosuc was fair going. A mixture of paddling and wading. Current fairly strong. Above Stark the river was better and they were able to paddle most of the time. Turned out to be very hard going though against the current. Their mileage goal to complete this stretch in one day was not realistic. Only seven miles to the Frizzle campsite on Sunday instead of seventeen miles. Than today they had hoped to be across the portage to the Androscogin and be up that river a ways to camp. Instead they are about halfway across at Cedar Pond campground. This has put them about a day behind.          
     Tuesday they will finish the three mile portage, than be onto the Androscogin. This will be either very hard upstream paddling or taking the canoe for a walk along the road.
     Small disaster did strike today, probably due to all the hard upstream paddling. BROKEN PADDLE! One of our reliable Old Town paddles finally quit. A small spot of varnish wore through, not being repaired had led to a weak spot and hairline fracture in the wood. Back up paddle on board enabled them to keep going. This would put the trip at risk though with no further back up and long miles in Maine with no ready outfitters beside the river. Fortunately this happened only a day before they were to meet Meghan's grandparents to help shuttle them up part of the Andro. We were able to set them up with two spare whitewater paddles that should be rugged enough to survive the remaining journey.

Posted by Earle

And they're Off, Again

I dropped Chris and Meghan off this mornnig at the NFCT access in Bloomfield, VT. They were heading down the Connecticut river today and turning up the Ammonoosuc River to Groveton. Plenty of water there and a strong current. They should have a relatively easy paddle downstream. The Lower reaches of the Nulhegan were visible in places. Plenty of water for a strong class ll -lV run, but dangerous also.  

Posted by Earle

Rest Day Reflections by Meghan

Hey everyone! As you know we made it to Chris' grandparent's camp where we have been staying for the past week.  We really needed those rest days to recover physically and mentally from the first couple weeks that put us four days ahead of schedule.  We were going, going, going right from the start so this was a chance for me to recover from the shock to my system that this trip seemed to bring on.  I didn't really have any expectations when we first started out so I didn't really realize how nice it would be to have zero days.  I was reluctant to take rest days at all during any point of the trip thinking that it would feel like giving up. As we rested (and ate) up though, I was able to think back more, instead of constantly thinking about the day ahead, on what we have accomplished and it has helped me look forward more to the coming weeks now that we have a routine established, I know what to expect, and that I (we) can actually handle something like this. 

I am extremely grateful to Chris' grandparents for letting us stay with them for a week and for helping us out with our day trips by shuttling the truck with the canoe rack to the take out each day and especially for the yummy breakfasts and coffee in the morning; I can't thank them enough!  We had a get together last Saturday when my and the rest of Chris' family came up to see us and have a cookout.  It was a lot of fun to see everyone especially my twin sister who I haven't been able to talk to in a while.  We came home one more day today to do laundry one more time after the four hot, hot days we have had this week and to get a few last supplies such as a bicycle repair kit for our wheels (just in case), a longer bowline for lining, and more padding for the carrying thwart (for future portages).  Tomorrow we are staying at camp for the 4th of July and then heading back out to the Connecticut river on Saturday where were will continue on through New Hampshire and then finally Maine. 

Nulhegan

Wednesday July 2nd

     Earle here, Chris and Meghan have been doing day trips from camp. Today was the last one.  Chris told me yesterday I could paddle the Nulhegan with them. Brett agreed to go, so I figured this might be last good opportunity to join them, work would wait. It would just be an easy 4 miles (WRONG!). Maybe only a short portage to Spectacle Pond and to the Nulhegan (WRONG AGAIN!!). 

     Day started out very hot, portaging. After about 20 minutes I'm thinking were not going to see Spectacle Pond. "Oh were probably on the old trail". No paddle Spectacle, go around the campground to route 105. "It's only about 3 miles." 

     "Oh Really" Felt like 13 miles. My feet were wore out and I hadn't even seen water yet! Flies were terrible. Not sure if there were more black flies or deer flies, but they were constantly buzzing around.

     But it's all good. The flaggers on route 105 didn't even stop us. Finally to the bridge and down the bank to put in. Hot HoT HOT. On the water finally into Nulhegan Pond. A bit of a pleasant breeze. Really neat little pond. The outlet is a long channel leading to the Nulhegan River ( nothing more than a  brook it's head here. Lot's of old submerged logs here alluding to the logging history off the area. They will continue to be seen all along the river.

    River started out narrow and deep and windy. Decent paddling. Similar to the Oswagatchie in NY. Until it starts to split  up into multiple channels. Of course less and less water in each. Pretty soon the brush is closing in on each side and the obstacles in the river are more frequent. In and out of the boat, sand and mud sometimes quite deep. Now we might as well be walking all the time. Brush, beaver dams, sandbars, mud. And bugs, spiders and whatever falling into the boat. Still HOT. Walking in the river would feel good if we weren't up to our knees in mud. After about an 3/4 of an hour of this we finally come back to the main channel. Water and current!! Wide and deep enough to get back in the  boat and paddle. Well that's a pleasant change of pace.

   This river continues to confound us. Constant beaver damns. Ram it, jump out, pull it across, jump back in. Paddle, mix, repeat. Shallows that won't float a boat or logs across the stream require us to get out and walk. Than the twisty turns get sharper and more frequent. Brett is complaining about getting brush whipped. I think we are both getting too tired to fight our way around the constant corners. 

     We are beginning to look for and anticipate the end. Hopefully. Brett and I are both wondering if Chris and Meghan consider this a routine day.Seems pretty tough to us. We approach the road than the river bends away again. A snowmobile bridge goes by, than a rickety footbridge. We see a building on the road side, but not the railroad bridge that means our out to Wenlock Crossing. There is a nice short stretch (50 yards) of straight fastwater, but that is the first we have seen of rocks in the stream. More work to make our way around them, than back to the twisties. Chris said this was only 4 miles. Awful long to me.  Now we find a large old pine completely across the river. Will have to be a drag and liftover. OK glad Chris gave us a hand with that. 

    Finally I see the bridge! Soon enough we are dragging up the bank. Than just a quick hundred yards to the truck. BLACK FLIES, there has to be a dozen lighting on my arms all of a sudden. And this place smells. We begin to load up as quick as possible. I think Chris and Meghan are glad they don't have to make camp around here.

   All in all an enjoyable trip. Hot, tough and dirty. Temperature reached 91 and we were rooting for clouds.  But Chris allowed that this was a pretty tough day for them too. Well that makes me feel a little better, but my body is still sore all over. Brett did the actual mileage on Google Earth and found it to be 7.3. Over 5 hours for a 'short paddle'.