The Fulton Chain of Lakes has a wide range of character. Near the villages of Old Forge, Eagle Bay and Inlet, the 'camps' are predominately very elaborate high end homes with boat houses worth more than your average camp around here. The most ostentatious of these had a full front panoramic glass three stories high, in the Adirondack style of course. The further from these centers in general the less showy and expensive the camps were. Definitely a 'camp and boat' culture though, as they dominate the shoreline from Old Forge through to Inlet. There are even some visible on the ridges back away from the lakes. They peek over or through the trees, with what must be spectacular views.
Much of First Lake is narrow, with camps and the high banks close to the channel, shaded with high arching trees. As the waters finally open up we feel a pleasant breeze behind us. Not much for waves here at the SW end, but the wind does provide a nice boost. At times you can hit a real sweet spot with the wind of one side and you just paddle hard on the other side without any steering correction. Feels like a sailboat tacking across the wind.
The paddle up the lakes is uneventful except I struggle at time to maintain pace with Chris and Meghan. Solo paddling has it's benefits, but it's still one paddle against two in the water at any time. Regardless it feels good to be on the water.
Fourth Lake is probably the largest and longest of the chain. The wind here has considerable reach to build up and pile up waves. Even with the wind astern, paddling become difficult. I am struggling just to maintain a consistent heading. The waves roll through the length of the boat and lift the front end as they pass.
My bow will be moved three feet one way, than while trying to correct it another wave rolls through and pitches the other way. Reluctantly I break out the double end paddle while watching Chris and Meghan open a considerable gap in front of me. The ride becomes very wet, but eventually we reach the end of the lake. At the outlet the waves are funneled into the channel and form rolling waves like a whitewater river. Challenging.
The narrow passage to Fifth Lake goes by the Inlet town recreation area, private camps, public docking and a run down marina. They have gas and mixed gas pumps at the dock. Over $5 per gallon! It is very apparent we are heading upstream now as the current is considerable. We have to paddle hard to maintain headway and avoid the speedboats, party boats and fishing boats closeby on both sides.
The portage to Sixth Lake appears to be wheelable. Meghan and I take gear over first, while Chris takes his canoe overhead (not that far...). I'm not to proud though to fix my wheels onto the canoe when I go back. The character of the lakes changes dramatically. There are camps here only on the end, as the signs of civilization begin to fade away. Sixth and Seventh are much more pleasant paddling with the shorter windward reaches it becomes much less of an issue. The hilly wooded shoreline is much more relaxing than the jarring showy camps on the southern end of the chain.
Soon we reach the campsite they have in mind on Seventh Lake. There is still a stiff breeze on the exposed rocks here and with the damp misty weather is quite cool. The leanto will provide good shelter. Chris quickly fixes a tarp to the open front to break the wind. He is complaining about the cold weather with their thin
fleece bags. "Where are the warm summer nights?"
The picnic table is moved to the lee of the leanto to cook dinner. Sausage, gravy and biscuits. MMmmm, how did I happen into this. Hot and tasty. Hits the spot. Dinner done, it becomes a battle to stay up. The cold damp discourages any outside activity. We are all beat and into bed by 8:00 PM.
All up early the next morning. I head out 10 to 15 minutes ahead to get a start on them, knowing they will catch up in good time. Very slight breeze right ahead, but paddling is terrific, on the still water. Soon at the end of the lake i see a campsite on the left bank. Old Town on the beach, must be the acquaintance Chris and Meg have made on-line from the Netherlands. I ask if they are doing the NFCT, and if they are from their. "Yes" and "Yes", "You must be Chris's dad." Chris and Meg catch me before I set out on portage.
The portage here is through Eight Lake Campground, all paved. Setting up for wheeling is quick and practiced now. Once over carrying pack, quickly in and over to the put-in. Eight Lake passes quickly and once more a portage. No boardwalk in sight as anticipated but it appears wheelable. According to Chris 1.3 miles as we head out. Pass what must be the highest point on the NFCT, but surprisingly no marker.
With the opening to Brown's Tract Inlet in sight we finally see the boardwalk. Short and winding, but quite necessary as it traverses over swampy open water, which would be impossible to carry or paddle.
This little stream is pleasant, meandering back and forth upon itself. It is quiet, and fascinating, with beaver dams, mud and sufficient current to keep you moving yet on your toes. Eventually it becomes a little tedious though as we can see buildings and steeples of the Racquette Lake village, yet they seem not to get any closer as we wind around the twisty channel.
Finally under the bridge and out onto the open lake. A little headwind is more apparent now with small waves rolling in. The end of my piece of this journey is
in sight as we paddle into the quaint little settlement. The excursion boat, a general supply store which has seen better days, tap room, a few other buildings and a couple churches are all that is here. It has the feel of a tourist stop from another era that is hanging on by a thread.
Jackie has just arrived. We wish Chris and Meghan well. After a quick moment to stretch they are underway as we load my canoe for the trip home.
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