Flagstaff Lake July 12th

Earle here.

After picking Chris and Meghan up on the road to Stratton (walking their canoe), we went back to Rangeley. Jackie and I took them out to dinner at the hotel we were staying at.They took advantage of opportunity to shower before we left them to set up tent at the Rangeley Lakes Logging Museum. They generously allow the NFCT portage to cross their property and allow through paddlers to camp here overnight on their grounds.  

Tried to put in on the South Branch Branch Dead River south of Stratton. Looked like a short mile on the map to a bridge. Turned out to be low gear 4WD crawling. Jackie driving was not happy but get going. Got to a very sketchy looking ledge and stone drop and decided to walk ahead to check it out. This 'road' is really just a snowmobile trail and the bridge we come to proves it. River here is very tempting, wild and remote. I would love to put in here, but water level would barely float a boat. I leave decision up to Chris and he concurs with my thoughts, "Turn around". Back out to the main road.

We put in on Flagstaff Lake Saturday morning near the town of Stratton. I was paddling solo and trying mightily to keep up with the paddle hardened Chris and Meghan. There are power boats, fishing boats and party boats putting in at this access. Busy, busy, I am a bit concerned about inconsiderate power boaters rolling canoes in their wakes. No need to worry. This lake is HUGE and for the most part they leave us plenty of room. There is definetely a party boat culture on this lake though. They seem to be the predominate and always with at least a 12 pack or 30 pack. 

Paddling is relatively easy. Little breeze and a beautiful background of the Bigelow range. A connected range of steep and massive peaks ever present and looming to the South. 

Only 3-4 miles in the wind begins to pick up. Suddenly waves are rolling through under the canoe about 1.5 feet high. As we approach a point and campsites Chris indicates to go ashore. We evaluate and he asks if I can continue. "Yes, it's manageable, if we stick next to shore". Site here is busy, two party boats and another boat apparently camping here. A woman from a party boat clarifies our locatoin and offers some advice on campsites further down the lake. We opt to continue hoping the SW wind will abate as we round the point. After a challenge to get over the breaking surf there is a strong rush of waves and wind as we round the point than the wind dies completely. 

Paddling is easy again as the miles roll by. I do suggest a lunch stop would be a welcome break from my struggle to maintain pace. 'Whew', but I'm not complaining for the opportunity to paddle and be a small part of their grand adventure. 

Back on the water the wind is picking up again. Quartering to us from behind, I lean my canoe to the side to catch more wind and get a strong boost. Feels like I am flying along now I easily keep up with little effort. Soon we are approaching an island and we follow Chris's plan to keep to the southern shore. As we get closer though, what should be open water according to the map appears blocked. There is quarter mile wide accumulation of dri-ki, mud, and old rotted timber.

 

We land and get out to look it over. Chris discovers the semi-solid looking dirt is really 2 feet deep. We have to pick our way stepping very carefully on the driftwood, sometime solid, but more often just floating on the water or mass of  accumulated debris. Slowly and carefully we make our way ahead, than drag the boats behind us. Chris survives a split between a collapsing foothold and wandering boat. We really have to be careful here as a fall will almost surely come on top of exposed ragged wood.

Once over this we have to pick our way through narrow channels to open water again. 

Soon we are at the 'Round Barn' campsites. There are about 9 primitive sites here. Accessible from a road, on a Saturday night we discover they are all full. Also home to some numerous extremely vicious mosquitoes. We ask a group of partyers about the island just offshore. "Nope, haven't seen anybody there all day." Sounds like a good deal to us. Breezy, no bugs? Turns out to be really sweet. Also away from the busy party crowd. 

Chris and Meghan are making some sweet smelling mac and cheese while I heat my beef stew right in the can. Meghan offers a piece of a nice round bread loaf and I am also cooking some canoe country bread. Much good food!  Sunset is beautiful and the water and breeze are calm background music, as I lay in my tent and look out over the lake. Morning will come soon and I will have to head home and they will continue on.